The Shinkansen high-speed trains might be the fastest and most convenient way to travel Japan. But flashing through the country's hinterland between megacities, temples and onsen towns in your comfort seats on rails, you are missing out on some of the most thrilling landscapes of Japan - and some of the most enjoyable driving roads in Asia. With the latest edition of his cult travel magazine "Curves", photographer and publisher Stefan Bogner is finally releasing the guide for the perfect Japanese road trip we all have been waiting for. For Classic Driver, he has picked his favourite six destinations — but we still recommend ordering the magazine to drive along Stefan's five-week road trip and get countless valuable suggestions along the way. Curves Japan is now available in the CD Shop.
Night drive in Tokyo
Tokyo is both the world's gateway to Japan — and one of the most exciting megacities in the world. "At first you might feel like you've landed on another planet - and you need time to acclimatise," says Stefan Bogner. He recommends to stay in the city a couple of days, stroll the streets of Daikanyama to stretch your legs after a long flight, try out some restaurants and slowly get into driving. The best time to get used to the Japanese traffic is at night, when the daytime traffic has waned. Cruising on Tokyo's elevated expressways after dark between looming skyscrapers, you can also get a glimpse of that famous Bladerunner vibe, before diving into the busy side streets and finally stopping at an Izakaya to cure your jetlag with a deliscious late-night snack.
A roller coaster ride in Hokkaidō
After Tokyo, Stefan recommends to head north aboard a car ferry to Hokkaidō, an island located on the northernmost end of Japan. Especially in autumn, when Hokkaidō's forrests turn into vivid colours, the volcanic landscapes attract adventure travellers and trekkers from all over the world, while skiers come in winter when the island disappears under heaps of snow. For motorists, Hokkaidō is an equally exciting destination, wether you drive along National Route 273, which runs through Daisetsuzan National Park and across Mikuni Pass, offering breathtaking views, or down the famous 4.5 km "Roller Coaster Road" with its dramatic ups and downs and the Tokachi Mountain Range in the distance.
Drifting paradise
Crossing back from Hokkaidō to the main island of Honshu with the tyres properly warmed up, Stefan recommends to navigate towards the Tsugaru Iwaki Skyline, a truly breathtaking volcanic road ascending Mount Iwaki with 69 hairpin bends and gradients of up to ten degrees. It is considered one of the most dangerous mountain roads in the world — but if you are an expert driver, and the roads are empty, it is truly a drifting paradise!
Above the clouds
After driving down east coast on beautiful coastal roads until South of Sendai, Stefan suggests to turn inlands near Fukushima and head for the Bandai-Azuma Skyline. The 29-kilometre-long panoramic road along the Azuma mountain ranges up to over 1,600 metres. "You drive partly above the clouds, through endless orange-red autumn forests — and in the evening, after a perfect meal, you lie down in the onsen bath," says Stefan. With a hot washcloth on your head, you look out over a Zen garden and let the driving impressions of the day sink in.
Taking it slow on the White Road
After a cultural pit-stop at the famous Edo-period Shinto shrines in the temples of Nikko, motorists are advised to head west through the Joshin'etsukogen National Park and over the Venus Line. "This is a great, 76-kilometer-long road in the Japanese Alps in the province of Nagano, which reminded me a lot of Tuscany," Stefan recalls. "Little traffic, impressive panoramas, lakes and gentle hills covered with Japanese silver grass." Climbing up into the mountains, the Shirakawa-go "White Road" leads from the foot of Hakusan to the famous village of Shirakawa-go. "It can be completed in about an hour," says Stefan, "but I recommend taking more time." In autumn, the restaurants serve seasonal mushroom dishes and sushi with alpine char from the surrounding mountain streams - a dream!
A glimpse of magic mountain
You cannot visit Japan without catching a glimpse of Mount Fuji. After all, Japan's mythical mountain was the backdrop to one of Formula 1's most memorable showdown when James Hunt and Niki Lauda battled for the championship title in 1976. Luckily, Mount Fuji likes to show itself — if the weather allows, you can see it from 200 kilometers away. "We had the best views of Mount Fuji, but also Mount Komagatake and Lake Ashinoko on the Ashinoko-Hakone Skyline Drive," Stefan reveals. This scenic drive takes you across the western ridge of the Hakone Caldera, formed by the collapse of volcanoes in this area hundreds of thousands of years ago. After refuelling in a road-side teahouse, Stefan suggests to fade out the road trip with a couple more days in Tokyo, bringing the Japanese experience to an end while already planning the next trip.
Photos: Stefan Bogner / Curves Magazine